Mechoui Agnello Risto

The experience

One of the pit houses on Derb Semmarine, the short lane off the north end of Jemaa el-Fna that everyone calls Mechoui Alley, where whole lambs are lowered into clay ovens sunk into the floor and left over wood embers for hours. The meat is hacked off and sold by the kilo, handed over with bread, salt and cumin, and eaten upstairs in a four-storey warren of rooms with no plates and no cutlery. It also runs tanjia marrakchia, the city's clay-urn beef. Kitchen hours are roughly 9am to 5pm, which is to say it is a daytime affair.

Lamb pulled out of a fire pit in the floor and weighed out by the kilo — the oldest hot lunch in Marrakech.

What a membership adds.

Everything above is free: the name, the photo, the rating, the exact spot. What members get is the part you can't Google: the sourced insider tip for this place (what to order, when to go, what to skip), every day of your trips unlocked in full with the insider tip on every researched stop, and the concierge at full strength, answering with your own insider tips, no daily meter.